Thursday, 7 September 2017

Caminho Portuguese Day 8

September 6, 2017
Caminha to Vila Nova de Cerviera
18 km
Sunny and hot
Today starts our inland route and we discovered two route options that are fairly close together but slightly different.  The yellow arrow Camino route winds it's way through the various villages and along the highway and the Evopiste trail which is a new path along the river.  This is a biking and walking route that is flat and composed of the rubbery material I associate​ with running tracks.  I managed to trip over my own feet and went down like a muppet while walking a flat and straight section.
Vila Nova de Cerviera was well worth the stop and we wandered the castle and enjoyed the art installations.  Our room was in a hotel just out of town and was large, airy and friendly.  We walked back to town for delish tapas dinner.



Tuesday, 5 September 2017

Caminho Portuguese Day 7

September 5, 2017
Vila Praia de Ancora to Caminha
11 km
Overcast morning and sunny afternoon

After some discussion Lisa and I agreed we would leave the coastal route at Caminha and turn inland, travel up the Rio Minho to intersect the central route at Valencia.  Our decision was based on the desire to experience some of the central route (of which we have heard great things) and by leaving the seaside route we will be adding some variety to our Camino.  

With that plan we booked the next three nights as things in our price range seemed to be filling up.  It also meant that we only walked 11 km today to Caminha.  This is ok for us because an afternoon of laundry and rest is most welcome. 

I read somewhere that rather than build in full rest days into your Camino (where's you spend two nights at one location), have a short walk day occasionally where you can stop early to rest, laundry, sightsee.  This keeps you in 'walking mode' and moves you forward but still provides a break.  Today we tried and liked this.

Caminho Portuguese Day 6

September 4, 2017
Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora
21 km
Overcast and fog, later clear

Breakfast laid on in our hotel and we hit the Camino around 0915 hrs. We decided on the littoral way on the beaches over the coastal route just inland.  Very fetching beaches, dramatic rocky shores and kms of boardwalks.  Passed by a couple of small  and overgrown 18th century coastal forts and numerous old fisherman's cottages.


Sunday, 3 September 2017

Caminho Portuguese Day 5

September 3, 2017
Nieva to Viana di Castelo
16 km
Sunny and warm turning to late afternoon fog and showers.

No breakfast included at our hotel so we used this as an opportunity to get an earlier start at 0730 hrs.  Fantastic walk through the woods, up and down hills and through sleepy villages.  Fell in with a trio of pilgrims (an Aussie and a Dutch couple) until Viana.  

Enjoyed the company very much and we all later met for dinner.  This was our first real 'pilgrim's menu' of the trip so far.  A sort of discount multi course special of the day that included soup, salad, bread, olives, pork or fish main course, wine and coffee all for only €9!

Highlight was the crossing of the Rio Lima on the Eiffel bridge.  Lisa spent the late afternoon exploring the old Town centre and the costume museum while I climbed the hill above town to the Sanctuary of Santa Luzia and view the inside of a cloud.

Saturday, 2 September 2017

Caminho Portuguese Day 4

September 2, 2017
Fao to Neiva
15 km
Sunny and hot - 25C
Ola! It's Lisa,  guest blogging today as Rand has a slight cold with chills and like many men in this circumstance, is suffering acutely.
Today we left Fao at 9, because it's hard to pass up a free breakfast, which never seems to start before 830 am.
It was a lovely walk into Esposende, starting with a serenade by a practicing samba band, which was a big thrill for me.
Over the course of the day we moved just a few km inland from the sea, but it feels distinctly different. We also did a bit of climbing today for the first time.
The walk to the next major stop, Viana do Castelo, is 30 km, which seemed way too far for a hot day and a sick tour leader. We had a hard time finding anything in the way of accommodation at the halfway point, but with persistence, we got a room at a two star hotel in Neiva.  I did expect that as we walked we would see signs for private home offering rooms. But we never did! Not one.
Crossed paths with the local rescue dog walking club and enjoyed some quirky tree ornaments.

Friday, 1 September 2017

Caminho Portuguese Day 3

September 1, 2017
Vila do Condo to Fao
23 km
Sunny and windy
Started today by passing through the busy seaside communities of Vila do Conde and  Povoa de Varzim. Transitioned to much quieter boardwalks through the dunes before heading inland where the Camino lead us through farms and forest.  Arrived at our hostel (€40 for private room) at Fao.
Sunburned, tired and four sore feet from all the cobble stones but no blisters!
Vila do Condo
More board walks
We call this a Camino double-double
Old windmill