Camino Day 14

Date: May 31st
Start: Sarria
Stop: Palas de Rei
Distance: 53 km
Weather: Sunny with puffy clouds
Summary in one sentence: Awesome up and down day across the Galician country side.

My night started well in nice quiet and airy albergue until around 10:30 when the German girl in the bunk beside me started vomiting in the waste bin between our bunks.  She was hauled off to hospital but was back in her bed when I awoke.  She apologize d for all fuss and said she had been feeling ill the past couple of days.  Lets hope hope she was past thr super contagious phase when she picked the bunk beside mine.

Spent the 10 or so km today on the walkers route which is for the most part dirt country lanes.  Crossed a stream on an  ancient stone causeway.  Very pretty country and certainly noticing an increase in pelegrino traffic as I am nearing the 100 km distance to Santiago.  This is the minimum distance for a pilgrim to do to qualify for the Composela certificate. 

Back on the roads again and they are excellent quality with very lityle traffic.   Starting to see the little 'horreo' grain storage buildings that are characteristic of this area but are for the most part ornamental these days.

At the tiny hamlet of Ventas de Naron I grabbed a qick bite of  scrambled egg sandwich and beer.  Just the thing to keep the engine running!

Camino Day 13

Date: May 30th
Start: Pedrafita do Cebreiro
Stop: Sarria
Distance: 53 km
Weather: Foggy then clear
Summary in one sentence: Short climb and long downhill through gorgeous countryside.

Short climb to mountain village of O Cebreiro with the odd little thatched 'palloza' buildings dating to bronze age.  After a couple more small climbs a fantastic 12 km downhill on beautiful smooth and traffic free road to Triacastela for a coffee break and chat with a Dutch cyclist who has a friend in Chilliwack, BC.  Lovely rolling ride to Sarria with stop at Samos to visit the Benedictine monastery there.  Booked into the very nice Obradoiro albergue in the old town of Sarria.

Camino Day 12

Date: May 29th
Start:  Villafranca del Bierzo
Stop: Pedrafita do Cebreiro
Distance: 30 km
Weather: Rainy
Summary in one sentence: Rainy staging day

As weather is meant to improve tomorrow and I have the final mountain climb to O Cebreiro just ahead and it would be nice to do this in fair westher.  Therefore my plan for the day was to do a short staging ride be be well positioned tomorrow.  A fairly casual ride and steady climb to Pedrafita do Cebreiro which is about 9 km from high point. Good idea as I was completely soaked by the time I stopped.  A warm wet rather than the cold type for a change.
The countryside is as very fetching with the hills and lush valleys as I now enter the region of Galicia.   The cycling route follows the old N road which is now very  free due to the most of thr through traffic taking the new autoroute nearby.
Interesting first  for me was a pharmacy vending machine in a small village dispensing such things as sun screen, bandaids and baby food.

Camino Day 11

Date: May 28th
Start: Rabanal del Camino
Stop: Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance: 59 km
Weather: Cold and damp ending sunny
Summary in one sentence: A wet and cool climb, a castle and set up for another climb.

A snorey night in the albergue and off to 2 degrees at 7:00 am.  Dick discovered a slow leak in front tire so we found a pilgrims shelter where we could get out of wind and rain to replace tube.  Basically cycl7ng inside a cloud for 5 km to high point of entire Camino (1504 meters) and the Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims traditionally leave a stone brought from home.  I left a Soames beach pebble.  A cold 15 km and 1000 metre descent to pretty Molinaseca where they had us with €3.50  bacon and eggs.  A short spin to Ponferrada where Dick and I parted ways as he had a very tight schedule and needed to keep moving so he did.  Me less so and checked out the very good Templar castle (free Wednesdays!) Before cycling the 23 hilly  kms through vineyard country to Villafranca del Blerzo where I checked into the funky Hotel San Francisco around 4:00.  Found a friendly bike shop to have chain lubed then off to walk about.

Camino Day 10

Date: May 27th
Start: Leon
Stop: Rabanal del Camino
Distance: 67 km
Weather: Cool and cloudy later
Summary in one sentence: Nice to ride with another fellow.

On way out of Leon I crossed paths with Dick from Connecticut who had been riding since Le Puy.  Very warm and chatty fellow.  We stayed together all day.  Stopped in Astorga where Tuesday market was happening so grabbed bread, cheese and fresh cherries for lunch.  Then checked out the Gaudi designed cathedral in town.  Gradual climb over next 20 km to Rabanal del Camino   where we secured beds in albergue.   Enjoyed couple of beers with Australian  pelegrinos  before Dick and I headed off menu at local restaurant.  

Camino Day 9

Date: May 26th
Start: Le Burgo Ranero
Stop: Leon
Distance: 39 km
Weather: Clear and cool
Summary in one sentence: Shortish riding day to allow for 5ime to explore Leon on foot.

Cold early start for flat straight ride to village of Reliegos where I bumped into some pelegrinos fom Nelson, BC.  One of them knows my mother in law's cousin who lives there!  Another 26 km to the main plaza in the city of Leon.  Found a great one star hotel behind the cathedral where I was able to check in early, clean up and do a walk about.  Very beautiful and historic  city.  Visited the cathedral which is considered in the league of Chartes and Notre Dame.   Grabbed a donar and bought over priced gloves (I only brought along my fiingerless cycling ones) as freezing fingers are getting old.  A pelegrinos I chatted with reminded me there is a 1500 meter summit ahead so could be colder yet.

Camino Day 8

Date: May 25th
Start: Carrion de los Condes
Stop: El Burgo Ranero
Distance: 58 km
Weather: Cloudy and cool
Summary in one sentence:  More westward riding across the plains of Castillo.

Off at 7:15 and for first hour the Camino followed the dead straight ancient Roman road 'Via Aquitana'.  Second breakfast at Calzadilla and lunch at Bercianos del Real Camino, 34 km later. Visited the  Puente Romano (Roman bridge) which helps put into perspective how long folks have been living around here.   Generally the  scenery not as fetching as pass days as after first hour the Camino closely parallels the A231 motorway.  Booked into the Albergue Laguna which seems nice.