Camino Day 21

Date: June 7th
Start: Santiago
Stop: Madrid
Distance: 0
Weather: Cool
Summary in one sentence: Last day in Santiago before night train to Madrid.

Spent the day visiting some sights like the bustling  public market and the Galician Cultural Museum with it triple spiral staircase.  Picked up a few souvenir and wandered the streets before collecting up bike and heading off to train station and the 1030 night train to Madrid.  Sleep was elusive but enjoyed the night chatting with fellow pelegrinos heading home.

Camino Day 20

Date: June 6th
Start: Muros
Stop:  Santiago
Distance: 0
Weather: Rainy and cold
Summary in one sentence: Time for a taxi ride.

Pouring rain a 60+ km ride back to SDC so I opted for a taxi lift which is not really cheated because I am go back to SDC.  Made a ton of sense.  Dropped at train station and pushed bike back to my casa 'Se Alquilan Apartamentos' near the Porto Camino.  Thrilled to pass an outdoors shop selling camino buffs which make great souvenirs and I have not seen since Santo Domingo.
Wandered around in the rain utilizing my repurposed umbrella.   Took in pilgrims mass again.  Visited the Peligrino museum and the church of San Francisco where I received a second compostela celebrating its 800 years of service to pilgrims.
Very lucky to bump into some new friends from a few days past and had an enjoyable dinner with Suzie from Ottawa and Deon from Netherlands.

Camino Day 19

Date: June 5th
Start: Finisterre
Stop: Muros
Distance: 57 km
Weather: Cool, windy and almost rain
Summary in one sentence: Nice ride up the coast which would have been nicer if weather cooperated a bit.

Very interesting ride aling the coast though several little pretty communities.   I did this as alternative to retracing my inland route.  Headwinds harassed me all the way which was a drag.  Booked into small hotel in seaside town of Muros.  Started to rain seriously later in the day once I was settled in. 

Camino Day 18

Date: June 4th
Start:  Olveiroa
Stop:  Finisterre
Distance: 34 km
Weather: Cloudy in morning and sunny afternoon
Summary in one sentence: Half and half; bike and foot

Slow start as knew this was fairly short riding day.  Lingered at breakfast with Susan from Ottawa and Deon from Netherlands.  Mostly downhill to Cee (on the sea) then along the coast to Finisterre where I booked into La Plaz albergue.   Explored town and grabbed lunch before the 6 km round trip walk to lighthouse at end of the world.  Back in town I lounged around then picked up groceries including € 0.5 one litre tetrapac of vino tinto for picnic dinner.  Wandered some more around the fishing boat pier.  Went for a wade in Atlantic which was surprisingly warm.

Camino Day 17

Date: June 3
Start: Santiago
Stop: Olveiroa
Distance: 54 km
Weather: Sunny
Summary in one sentence: A nice spin through a hilly country.

Left Santiago and followed the walkers way to Finisterre.   Stayed on the path itself for first 10 km then afterwards used lovely quiet roads.  Stopped for coffee and lunch supplies en route.  Arrived at Olveiroa at 2:30 and secured a bed in albergue.   Nice evening spent in cafe with other pelegrinos.

Camino Day 16

Date: June 2nd
Start: Santiago de Compostela
Stop: Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 0 km
Weather: Sunny and hot
Summary in one sentence:  Hanging out in SDC

Originally planned to head off to Finisterre today but changed mind as I was not prepared with map etc. and felt like staying two nights in one place.  Wandered about the old city and found a map book for Finisterre.   Dodgy ankle let me down and went for classic sprall in cathedral plaza.  Ankle sore but should be fine tomorrow.  
I have never been to Rome but thinking this place is like a mini version with churches and other religious buildings on every block.  Attended pilgrims mass at noon which was guessing over a thousand in attendance.   Mass was in Spanish and Latin so didn't get much.  The main event was the ceremonial swinging of the burning incense filled 'botafumeiro' at the end of a long rope.  It takes eight men to get it going but it is almost touching the roof in full swing.  This is a rare event so I was lucky to have seen it.
Bought some delish cherries which are in season here now and fixed a puncture on front tire and did some laundry.  Wild times.

Camino Day 15

Date: June 1st
Start: Palas de Rei
Stop: Santiago de Compostela
Distance: 72 km
Weather: Clear and hot (28 degrees high!)
Summary in one sentence: Straightforward hilly highway run.

Nice weather with a bit of a tailwind to Santiago.   Being a Sunday the traffic was very light.  Hilly but gradual and net downhill.   On outskirts of Santiago joined the Camino proper and arrived around 1:30.  City confusion as usual but eventually found way to cathedral for obligatory photo on the steps.  Approached by tiny Spanish women who talked me into booking into her B&B which was very nice, centrally located and at €20 a good deal.
Spent afternoon orientating myself and exploring town.  Being Sunday there was much going on in the streets with folk singing groups and samba bands.
Lined up for an hour at pilgrims office to have my credential checked and issued my official Composela document.
Tomorrow off to the sea - 88 km to Finisterre.

Camino Day 14

Date: May 31st
Start: Sarria
Stop: Palas de Rei
Distance: 53 km
Weather: Sunny with puffy clouds
Summary in one sentence: Awesome up and down day across the Galician country side.

My night started well in nice quiet and airy albergue until around 10:30 when the German girl in the bunk beside me started vomiting in the waste bin between our bunks.  She was hauled off to hospital but was back in her bed when I awoke.  She apologize d for all fuss and said she had been feeling ill the past couple of days.  Lets hope hope she was past thr super contagious phase when she picked the bunk beside mine.

Spent the 10 or so km today on the walkers route which is for the most part dirt country lanes.  Crossed a stream on an  ancient stone causeway.  Very pretty country and certainly noticing an increase in pelegrino traffic as I am nearing the 100 km distance to Santiago.  This is the minimum distance for a pilgrim to do to qualify for the Composela certificate. 

Back on the roads again and they are excellent quality with very lityle traffic.   Starting to see the little 'horreo' grain storage buildings that are characteristic of this area but are for the most part ornamental these days.

At the tiny hamlet of Ventas de Naron I grabbed a qick bite of  scrambled egg sandwich and beer.  Just the thing to keep the engine running!

Camino Day 13

Date: May 30th
Start: Pedrafita do Cebreiro
Stop: Sarria
Distance: 53 km
Weather: Foggy then clear
Summary in one sentence: Short climb and long downhill through gorgeous countryside.

Short climb to mountain village of O Cebreiro with the odd little thatched 'palloza' buildings dating to bronze age.  After a couple more small climbs a fantastic 12 km downhill on beautiful smooth and traffic free road to Triacastela for a coffee break and chat with a Dutch cyclist who has a friend in Chilliwack, BC.  Lovely rolling ride to Sarria with stop at Samos to visit the Benedictine monastery there.  Booked into the very nice Obradoiro albergue in the old town of Sarria.

Camino Day 12

Date: May 29th
Start:  Villafranca del Bierzo
Stop: Pedrafita do Cebreiro
Distance: 30 km
Weather: Rainy
Summary in one sentence: Rainy staging day

As weather is meant to improve tomorrow and I have the final mountain climb to O Cebreiro just ahead and it would be nice to do this in fair westher.  Therefore my plan for the day was to do a short staging ride be be well positioned tomorrow.  A fairly casual ride and steady climb to Pedrafita do Cebreiro which is about 9 km from high point. Good idea as I was completely soaked by the time I stopped.  A warm wet rather than the cold type for a change.
The countryside is as very fetching with the hills and lush valleys as I now enter the region of Galicia.   The cycling route follows the old N road which is now very  free due to the most of thr through traffic taking the new autoroute nearby.
Interesting first  for me was a pharmacy vending machine in a small village dispensing such things as sun screen, bandaids and baby food.

Camino Day 11

Date: May 28th
Start: Rabanal del Camino
Stop: Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance: 59 km
Weather: Cold and damp ending sunny
Summary in one sentence: A wet and cool climb, a castle and set up for another climb.

A snorey night in the albergue and off to 2 degrees at 7:00 am.  Dick discovered a slow leak in front tire so we found a pilgrims shelter where we could get out of wind and rain to replace tube.  Basically cycl7ng inside a cloud for 5 km to high point of entire Camino (1504 meters) and the Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims traditionally leave a stone brought from home.  I left a Soames beach pebble.  A cold 15 km and 1000 metre descent to pretty Molinaseca where they had us with €3.50  bacon and eggs.  A short spin to Ponferrada where Dick and I parted ways as he had a very tight schedule and needed to keep moving so he did.  Me less so and checked out the very good Templar castle (free Wednesdays!) Before cycling the 23 hilly  kms through vineyard country to Villafranca del Blerzo where I checked into the funky Hotel San Francisco around 4:00.  Found a friendly bike shop to have chain lubed then off to walk about.

Camino Day 10

Date: May 27th
Start: Leon
Stop: Rabanal del Camino
Distance: 67 km
Weather: Cool and cloudy later
Summary in one sentence: Nice to ride with another fellow.

On way out of Leon I crossed paths with Dick from Connecticut who had been riding since Le Puy.  Very warm and chatty fellow.  We stayed together all day.  Stopped in Astorga where Tuesday market was happening so grabbed bread, cheese and fresh cherries for lunch.  Then checked out the Gaudi designed cathedral in town.  Gradual climb over next 20 km to Rabanal del Camino   where we secured beds in albergue.   Enjoyed couple of beers with Australian  pelegrinos  before Dick and I headed off menu at local restaurant.  

Camino Day 9

Date: May 26th
Start: Le Burgo Ranero
Stop: Leon
Distance: 39 km
Weather: Clear and cool
Summary in one sentence: Shortish riding day to allow for 5ime to explore Leon on foot.

Cold early start for flat straight ride to village of Reliegos where I bumped into some pelegrinos fom Nelson, BC.  One of them knows my mother in law's cousin who lives there!  Another 26 km to the main plaza in the city of Leon.  Found a great one star hotel behind the cathedral where I was able to check in early, clean up and do a walk about.  Very beautiful and historic  city.  Visited the cathedral which is considered in the league of Chartes and Notre Dame.   Grabbed a donar and bought over priced gloves (I only brought along my fiingerless cycling ones) as freezing fingers are getting old.  A pelegrinos I chatted with reminded me there is a 1500 meter summit ahead so could be colder yet.