Sunday, 25 May 2014

Camino Day 8

Date: May 25th
Start: Carrion de los Condes
Stop: El Burgo Ranero
Distance: 58 km
Weather: Cloudy and cool
Summary in one sentence:  More westward riding across the plains of Castillo.

Off at 7:15 and for first hour the Camino followed the dead straight ancient Roman road 'Via Aquitana'.  Second breakfast at Calzadilla and lunch at Bercianos del Real Camino, 34 km later. Visited the  Puente Romano (Roman bridge) which helps put into perspective how long folks have been living around here.   Generally the  scenery not as fetching as pass days as after first hour the Camino closely parallels the A231 motorway.  Booked into the Albergue Laguna which seems nice.

Saturday, 24 May 2014

Camino Day 7

Date: May 24th
Start: Hornillos del Camino
Stop: Carrion de  los Condes
Distance: 65 km
Weather: Gorgeous - cool, sunny and no wind!
Summary in one sentence: Awesome cycling day mostly on Camino route.

Up early (as is pelegrinos norm) and on Camino at 6:30 cycling through fog.  Passed through Hontanas and Castrojeriz both still asleep.  Very pretty country with great visas all around.  Pushed up long flat top hill then down again to Boadilla del Camino (cerveza and sandwich) then along canal to  Fromista and finally 19 km straight stretch to Carrion de los Condes.  Booked into a fine room with miniature bathroom - Hostal Santiago.  Explored the town, nap and dinner.  As of this writing sounds like town is ramping up for a lively night.  Pleased with myself for conducting two separate conversations in french which after a week of struggling with Spanish, sermed almost intuitive.

Camino Day 6

Date: May 23rd
Start: Villafranca Montes de Oca
Stop: Hornillos del Camino
Distance: 59 km
Weather: Dreadful and later quite nice
Summary in one sentence: Cold, wet, windy start to an interesting day.

Left Villafranca at 7:00 in absolute downpour.  By the time I reached the pass I was too cold and wet to stop.  Later told it was 3 degrees in Burgos without wind chill!  Pushed on the 30 km to Burgos by which time the skies had cleared but still very cool.  Burgos locals wearing big jackets and scarfs.   Saw ear muffs on one.  Very pretty town and cycle friendly.  I visited the cathedral then grabbed a cafe before leaving via the cycle path to outskirts of town.  Made a good choice in then taking the Camino path to  Rabe de las Calzadas where I stopped for cerveza and tortilla.  The man running the bar was very magnanimous giving me a small charm for Buenos Caminos.  Stopped for day at Hornillos del Camino where I booked into a casa rural (B&B).  Small town and some of pelegrinos rolling in were not getting a bed.  It is nice to be out of the mountains and looking forward to the flat open lanscape of the meseta.   Enjoyed menu at local bar sharing table with an English man, a New Zealander and fellow from Spokane. 

Thursday, 22 May 2014

Camino Day 5

Date: May 22nd
Start: Santo de la Domingo
Stop: Villafranca de Montes Oca
Distance: 39 km
Weather: Rain and wind
Summary in one sentence: Hills+headwinds+rain+cold = short cycling day.

Nice early start with a loop north away from the Camino proper via Herramelluri to Belorado.  Winds, some sun and light showers.  At Belorado picked up lunch food and headed up the N120. Showers turned to heavy rain and before long I was pretty wet and cold.  Around noon arrived at Villafranca where I found a super B&B for €20.  It was a bit early to stop but they had me with the wood fire in fireplace.  Tidied myself up and laid out clothes to dry.  Around 2:00 the sun came out and wind abated!

Wednesday, 21 May 2014

Camino Day 4

Date: May 21st
Start: Viana
Stop: Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Distance: 63 km
Weather: Sun with shoers, mucho wind
Summary in one sentence: Challenging day of getting lost and head winds.

Bad nights sleep thanks to sleep apnea roommate in the albergue.    Started out at 7:30 with quick cycle in largish city of Logrono where I promptly got lost.  Thanks to two kind locals I found the Camino route out of town to Navarrete where I stopped for rest and second breakfast.  Very windy ride to Najera where I resorted to pushing to make forward movement.  More wind and a long hill before arriving at the interesting to of Santo Domingo.  I was quite flayed by this time so I opted for a room in the Hostel la Catedral (€30) to ensure a good sleep.  In Spain a hostel is low cost hotel.  A shower and nap to rechsrge and off to explore the town.

Camino Day 1

Date: May 18th
Start: MadridStop: Pamplona
Distance: 3 hrs. Train ride snd approx. 10 km around Pamplona
Weather: Clear and hot (30 degees +)
Summary in one sentence: Multi modal - taxi to Atocha train station, train to Pamplona, cycle around city  and to hostel.

I enjoyed the train ride to Pamplona - train trips are still kind of a novelty to me.  A station I promptly assembled bike and just as promptly got lost.  A kind local lead me to the street I needed to get to the Hosel Hemmingway where I wouldd spend the night.Wandered around the old city centre and visited the 18th century Vauban star fortress (which is now a park) and the Plaza del Castillo.  Enjoyed  a 'menu' dinner which included a bottle of local vino tino for €13.

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Camino Day 3

Date: May 20th
Start: Puenta la Reina
Stop: Viana
Distance: 65 km
Weather: Bits of everything - clouds, sun, showers, headwinds
Summary in one sentence: Quintessential awesome cycle touring day - cool weather, varying and moderately challenging riding, excellent almost traffic free roads, interesting villages and people.

The thunderstorm expected yesterday arrived in the middle of the night and was done by morning.  I didn't notice thanks to to lingering jet lag exhaustion and the noise dampening effects of the German fellow snoring in the bunk above me.  The walking pilgrims sharing my room (five of us in the room) like to get an early start which was fine with me - we were packed up and out by 7:00.  Nice 20 km ride to Estella where I explored the town a bit and grabbed a 'cafe solo' at a bar before the short ride to the Irache monastery and wine fountain.  Steady cimbing through the wheat fields with wonderful vistas.  Arrived at Los Arcos where I found an open bar for a 3€ grand cerveza to have the ham sandwiches I smuggles out of the breakfast buffet at the albergue this morning.  More up and down riding until arriving at Viana where I secured a spot in an eight bed room at the modern Izar albergue (€13 including breakfast).  Laundry and a walk about town and then dinner fashionably late.